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Coeur d'Esprit Natural Perfumes

Natural Perfumery Info


What are Natural Perfumes?


Flower-web 3.jpg (169388 bytes) 

    Purple Iris


Documents/Bewitchin Kitchen Perfume Review.pdf

 Lyn Ayre-making perfume while on vacation (1).JPG (172446 bytes)Creating a formula...

Natural Perfumes come of age once more…

In the realm of Natural Perfumes, one of our first tasks is to suspend the belief that they have much in common with the Commercial Perfumes of today. It is simply not the case. Commercial Perfumers of the well-known houses work with an enormous amount of ingredients. I read somewhere that the number is upwards of 3,000 items. I worked with around 300. They are professionally trained. I am self-trained. They create and launch one or two perfumes each year. I created and launched much more than that. 


I also feel it is important to add that just because something is natural does not mean it is necessarily good or healthy for us. Conversely, just because something is synthesized from a so-called 'man-made chemical' does not mean it is definitely bad for us either. I urge you to consider this issue with a clear head.


A century ago, Perfumers were using all natural ingredients from nature including essential oils, concretes, attars, absolutes, animal essences, floral waters, tinctures, and so on. Today, with all the sensitivities that we have developed due to the overwhelming of our olfactory organs (because everything is now scented) where our sense of smell resides, many of us are choosing to go back to simpler times. 


I am one of those. The perfumes I created were made from some of the above mentioned natural ingredients. The exception is that I didn't use animal essences that had been obtained using cruel methods. The animal essences I used (Ambergris for the water element, Hyraceum representing our earth, and Honey Beeswax for element of air) have long since dissociated from the animal in question and been rendered pure through eons of the elements of water, wind, earth, and sun. 


Perfume Policy   

With Natural Perfumes, you need not worry about being on the wrong side of a perfume policy. Only those in your scent circle will know you're wearing perfume. It's like having a delicious secret.

A Little Dab'lldoya

These perfumes are created from concentrated essences so there is no need for more than a little dab or spray. Essential oils are volatile and readily release their fragrance into the air. So, if the scent fades hours later, you can simply re-apply. It has also been suggested that if you breathe on the spot where the perfume was applied, this will help to revive the scent. 


Where to put it

I always suggest that the best place to dab or spray natural perfumes is in the cleavage. The body heat will cause the oils to volatize and the scent will rise to your nose. Other good spots are the inner wrists & elbows, and the back of your knees. Coco Chanel says -put it wherever you want to be kissed- I say, use caution in sensitive areas.  


Safety is key at Coeur d'Esprit


Natural Perfumes can have their own list of cautions just as synthetics ones do. It is an issue I address head on and formulate the dilution rate to minimize the risk. I have also cut many items from my palette as they were too high a risk for me to take on ethically. 


Pregnant or Lactating

Women who are pregnant or lactating always need to exercise caution on behalf of their child. Some of the essential oils used in making natural perfumes may pass through the barriers so it is better to temporarily refrain from the use of essential oils and natural perfumes until you are finished nursing.


Photo-toxic (should not wear in direct sunlight)

The citrus essential oils I use are steam distilled, so they are not photo-toxic; and they are diluted to an appropriate level so they quite safe to use on the skin. Opopanax is somewhat photo-toxic so the perfumes I create using this ingredient are to be worn during the evening or worn on skin that is not going to be directly exposed to sunlight for at least 24 hours. Ginger is slightly photo-toxic, so again, use in the evening or under your clothing. Test in a hidden spot to ensure that it doesn't stain. 


Try samples first

Of course, if you know your skin to be especially sensitive or you are prone to allergies, order samples first and try them out. This will not only help you to make a decision about the ones you enjoy, it will assist you in choosing the ones that are safe for you. Then, since it takes 4-6 weeks for your perfume to mature, you'll still have some perfume to use while you're waiting.


Aromatherapy professionals suggest to put a small drop on the inside of your elbow and cover with a bandage for 24 hours to see if your skin reacts to the ingredients. Trying out samples also applies to people with breathing disorders such as asthma or bronchitis, and others who have severe health issues. I don't recommend perfume for people with COPD, CF, or any other chronic lung issues.


My first order of business is 'Do No Harm', and I have taken every precaution on your behalf to create a safe and user-friendly product for you to enjoy. (I'm not selling perfumes at the moment.)


Documents/Natural Perfume Brochure.pdf




An informed customer is a happy consumer.


Please don't worry when people say, 'if you can't pronounce it, it can't be good for you' or believe it when the ad says, 'contains no chemicals'. This is simply not true. Did you know that Rose Oil has over 300 chemical constituents, that we know of? Hundreds more are still not identified.

Everything in nature has chemicals in it. You, me, the wood bookcase over there. The banana I had for a snack. The natural moisturizing cream I used today. Chemicals are not the enemy.




Here's is a chemical profile for one of the new natural essential oils I just purchased from Hermitage Oils in the UK. 


" Pemou oil (organic) Fokiena Hodginsii (Origin: Vietnam) is also commonly known as Siam wood. The smell is glorious, it is rich, warm, sweet and creamy and as the smell develops I would say it has similarities in smell to the conventional Himalayan and Atlas Cedarwood I often cross with Benzoin and a dash of blood Orange. The major constituents of the oil are fokeinol and nerolidiol accounting for over 70% of the oil. For the perfumer this is a superb fixative which will enable a wide variation of aromas to work well together. Pemou is obtained by steam distillation of the roots and is warm red in colour. Certified Organic

GC/MS % (Gas Chromatographs)

cyclohexane-1-methanol 0.30, o-menth-8-ene 2.79, naphthalene,1,2,3,4.. 0.50, alpha muurolene 0.12, 2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol… 0.33, beta bisabolene 0.18, gamma cadinene 0.23, delta cadinene 0.31, 2,6-dimethyl- 0.67, 1H-imidazole,1(1-oxopentyl) 0.20, cycloheptane,4-methylene 0.19, alpha farnesene 0.22, elemol 1.88, p-mentha-1,5,8-triene 0.13, spiro[4.5]dec-7-en-6-one 0.14, nerolidiol 30.87, fokeinol 41.52, 9,10-dehydro isolongifolene, 4.65 gamma eudesmol, 2.03 benzene,1,2,4,5-tetramethyl.. 0.37, alpha eudesmol 5.06,santolina triene 0.7,1,3-cyclopentadiene…. 0.63, 2-butanone,4-(2,2,6-trimethyl… 0.43, 2-buten-2-ol…… 0.29, 1,5-hexadiene,2,5-dimethyl 0.81,2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol… 0.34, 1,3,6,10-dodecatetraene… 0.13, trans gamma bisabolene 2.70<  "

Everything has chemicals in it. 

Whether or not they're synthetic is the question.

Be informed, not afraid.



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